Weekend getaway from Bucharest – Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields in Bulgaria

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Ok, ok, people who know me, know that I have a new obsession for lavender fields. I’ve searched for them last year while in Bulgaria on the Black Sea, but I couldn’t find any that would make me quite happy. So I decided to take the internet by storm and find the best place to find lavender fields in Bulgaria.

The task turned out to be not so easy and even though I’ve done a lot of research, I still could not really put my finger on the map on where these lavish lavender fields of Bulgaria will be found.

But together with friends, we decided to jump in the car, head to Veliko Tarnovo – a beautiful medieval town in the heart of Bulgaria, surrounded by mountains – and drive all the way to Kazanlak where all the lavender fields were supposed to be.



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Getting to Veliko Tarnovo

If, like myself, you are traveling from Bucharest, you might want to rent a car and hit the road. Veliko Tarnovo is 170 km away from Bucharest and the drive there will take you around 3 hours. I know, that sounds a lot for this distance, but you must take into account the time you will have to wait at the boarder and the fact that you won’t be driving on a highway.

We paid the bridge tax at Ruse (around 5 EUR) and the vignette for driving one week on the streets of Bulgaria ( 8 EUR).

If you are coming from somewhere else and want to fly in, Sofia airport might be an option, from where you will have to take a train or rent a car and drive the 230 km. Also,  Gorna Oryahovitsa airport is another option, located 10 km away from Veliko Tarnovo. Check this site out for other useful travel information.

Eating in Veliko Tarnovo 

When we reached Veliko Tarnovo it was raining and the clouds were heavy over the mountain town, with a rather cold temperature for a late June day.

Since it was almost lunch time and the weather wasn’t treating us very nice, we decided to head to town and grab a bite to eat. But let me tell you one thing, when you are in Bulgaria you don’t only grab something to eat. Bulgarian portions are huge and delicious and you won’t be able to stop just after one bite. Get ready for a foodie weekend!

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria
Veliko Tarnovo

We decided to each try something else so we can share the food and see what we like most. You will see that there is a lot of meat in the Bulgarian menu, a lot of oven cooked dishes topped with cheese. My mouth is watering even as I’m talking about this.

Most restaurants in Veliko Tarnovo come with a view, and we stopped at Ego Pizza & Grill for lunch, but I would recommend also the restaurant just next to it, Shtastliveca.

For dinner, we chose another beautiful place, right next to the Tsarevets fortress – “Restaurant Ivan Asen”. Great traditional delicious Bulgarian food, at the right price and with great service. Don’t leave without trying the traditional desert they serve here, we almost made this mistake and I’m happy the guys there insisted we try it.

Finding the lavender fields of Bulgaria

Once we regained our forces we decided to head towards Kazanlak. After running around for a few hours, stopping by whenever we saw lavender fields in the distance only to understand that we could not reach them, having tried to reach one by foot only to find a great lake created by the heavy raining, we decided to give up.

Kazanlak was another disappointment, but I guess the town is beautiful during the Rose Festival, which had taken place one week before our visit.

On our way back towards Veliko Tarnovo, we managed to find one small and very poor lavender field, stopped and took some pictures and headed back.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Even so, the views in this area are beautiful and the wind bringing the nice lavender smell towards you makes you want to stay in such a field forever and ever.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Impressed by Veliko Tarnovo

All in all, even though the fields of lavender of Bulgaria were not what I expected them to be (even though I will be surprised towards the end of our trip), the small town of Veliko Tarnovo managed to steal my heart.

The small streets, traditional colorful houses, hundreds of cats running around on the most hidden alleys, the beautiful mountain view and the Tsarevets fortress, are only a few of the reasons why you should give this town a chance.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Climb the walls of the fortress, take the elevator to the top of the church and admire the beautiful view that will fold right beneath your eyes. Wherever you look, you will be surrounded by hills, greens and mountains.

Stay after dinner in town and don’t miss out the beautiful lights game on the Tsarevets fortress. We asked around and found out there isn’t a specific time when the show starts, but you will know it as soon as the public lightning gets turned off.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Don’t leave Veliko Tarnovo without savoring a delicious glass of Bulgarian wine or their famous rose water. As you might know, I love my a good glass of wine and the one in Bulgaria is particularly good at a surprisingly good price.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

What else to do in the area? 

Head to Arbanassi – only 3 km away from Veliko Tarnovo, this rustic quiet town will offer you the best views.

Take a detour 15 km away from Veliko Tarnovo to Hotnitsa waterfall not only to enjoy the clear blue water, but only for a walk in the canyon. The stairs here are very steep but totally worth climbing, so you will need to come prepared with good climbing shoes.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

Good things come to those who wait – lavender fields

Like everything in life, all the good things come when you least expect them and maybe when you have already lost hope and have forgotten them.

That’s what happened to us and our quest for lavender fields. Heading home from Hotnitsa waterfall, the GPS took us on a different road and, after stopping at the most beautiful sunflower field, this beautiful thing opened before our eyes.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

We were so happy to see it and you won’t imagine the smell these flowers have. Pure love.

Just make sure not to step on the flowers, they are very precious to their owners. Also, stop by only to take pictures, don’t take any, most of the fields have security so you might want to talk to the people and ask them if it is possible to take pictures only. Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

But the one thing I’ve learned from this trip is that you cannot force things and everything comes with patience.

Veliko Tarnovo and lavender fields of Bulgaria

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